Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Trip Report: AT - PUNCH BOWL TO JOHN'S HOLLOW

There are two choices for the south trailhead: One is located where the AT crosses a road that turns to the right a hundred yards before the AT bridge; I felt more secure parking at the AT lot that is (second and preferable choice) located on the left between Big Island and Glasgow where the steel AT bridge crosses the James River. There is ample parking here and several vehicles were parked overnight adding to a sense of security. North trailhead is located at a pull-over at MP 51.7 on the BRP. You must advise the BRP Office on the day of your trip, not before, that you will leave a vehicle in the pull-over, plate number, etc.

The trailhead areas are best reached, from Gso, by taking 29 North to Lynchburg; 501 to the BRP crossing; BRP to VA 130. Truck traffic on 501 , particularly after the BRP crossing, is horrendous. This use of the BRP will avoid two mountain crossings at 5 mph.

This is the AT. Well marked with signs and wear.

This is definitely a north to south hike. I can provide specific elevations if you do not have the elevation profiles.

Beginning on the BRP at the north end, climb 500-600 ft in half a mile to the turn-off for Punch Bowl Shelter. .2 miles to the shelter. Shelter sits in a hollow. Large shelter with pit toilet. Typical worn, muddy condition of most AT shelters from over-use. Small pond to the left as you approach the shelter. Across the pond is a nice meadow of a couple of acres with plenty of tent space where we set camp. Water source is below the pond/shelter. Negatives of the shelter: From the BRP it is a hard climb to the shelter. Unfortunately, there is a FS road a third of a mile from the shelter with a gentle incline from the FS road to the shelter. This ease of access means lots of use. We had two young men hike in late Friday and hang hammocks beyond our campsite, no problem. We had a couple arrive in the late afternoon, after several trips to trundle firewood in on a trolley cart in a cooler, carry a guitar and food accompanied by a Boxer - who made himself at home in our kitchen as we were eating dinner. I finally had to yell and throw something at the dog before they called him away. They set up at the shelter across the pond. A second couple arrived a short time later, they brought the bongo drums and two Beagles. None of the dogs, of course, were on a leash. The Beagles, excitable dogs in any event, were all over our cooking space. One of the Beagles came back later and, surprise, ended up in my lap with its nose in my (only) cup of cappuccino. The owner's only apology/excuse is that, "He is young and just learning"! The second couple also went to the shelter. Guitar and bongos could be heard late into the night.

Saturday morning, under full pack since this was a shuttle hike, another 600 to 700 ft to the top of Punch Bowl Mountain. Several ups and downs topping out at Brush Mountain (3,300 ft). Saturday afternoon a brutal descent of more than 2,000 ft on constant steps or switchbacks over very rough trail to John's Hollow.

John's Hollow also suffers from being only 1.5 miles from the trailhead on the James River. Again, a large shelter and pit toilet, water from an adjacent stream -- but worn and muddy. We arrived around 4 pm. Six to ten college kids in the shelter, though they were very well behaved. Another eight to ten men tented on the back side of the shelter for the night prepatory to a week's hike north on the AT. Very pleasant. Turned in early. Negatives of the shelter: Over-crowded. We were pressed for tent space.

In between the two over-used, over-crowded shelters is a beautiful hike of 9.0 miles. At lest 80% on the ridgeline with views to the east, west or both. James River Basin to the west. In addition to being a north to south hike, it is also an after/before leaf season hike. In the summer one would know nothing but of a walk in the woods.

Jerry Weston
Greensboro, NC

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